Cool Down a Hot Room Fast with These Underused Hacks

Seek Shade

Landscaping can do more than boost curb appeal. With thoughtfully chosen, strategically positioned trees and shrubs, you can actually keep your house cooler through the summer. After all, virtually all parts of the home exterior let in heat. To limit the effect, shade the roof with dense-canopied trees, ideally placed on the southern portion of the property. Also, deflect late afternoon sun with short trees, tall shrubs, or planted trellis-work situated along the western exposure.

Install Awnings

Of course, trees and shrubs can take years to mature. If yours are still too young to lend adequate shade, don't fret: Awnings achieve similar results, and they do so more or less instantly. Sure, not everyone loves the look of awnings, but few would argue against their effectiveness. Installed over a west-facing window, a fabric awning can reduce heat gain by as much as 77 percent! It's a simple concept, really: Block out the harsh sun to enjoy cooler spaces indoors.

Shield Your Windows

Go even further to reduce solar heat gain by applying reflective, heat-control window film to any windows in the hot room (or, if you choose, throughout the entire house). Made up of multiple UV-blocking layers, insulating window films limit the extent to which the sun's rays can drive up the temperature indoors. Because they're usually self-adhering, applying window film couldn't be easier. The process requires little more than a tape measure and a pair of scissors.

Focus on Fans

Don't underestimate the humble fan. In low humidity, a strategically placed fan can make you considerably more comfortable. On the sunny side of the house, particularly on upper floors, position fans to blow out toward an open window. On the shady side of the house, particularly on lower floors, do the opposite—orient fans to blow in toward the living spaces. In the summer, set ceiling fans to rotate counterclockwise so cool air gets drawn up from the floor.

Why Air Conditioners Leak Water

An air conditioners primary job is to remove moisture from the room to give you a feeling of comfort. During this process they capture a lot of water. How much, is dependent upon humidity content of the air, size of the air conditioner, its operating efficiency, and whether it was properly installed. The water captured during normal operation flows down the cooling coil and drops into the base, following channels or passages to the rear. Some of the water is lifted up by the fan blade and used to cool the heating coil, while most of it proceeds to the rear where it drops out of the base and onto the ground. That is, if everything is working perfectly. The reality of window air conditioners is that they can leak water.

The source of the leak can be allusive, appearing to come from multiple places, or only happen sporadically. Whichever the case, an air conditioner that leaks can drive you crazy trying to find the cause of the problem.

The following are a few suggestions of the most common reasons why water leakage occurs.

1. Improperly installed. A window air conditioner must be installed so that it's slightly lower at the rear than the front. This allows the water being removed from the room to drain to the back of the machine. A difference of one inch is sufficient. This is always the first thing to check. Many are improperly installed in the haste to get relief from the heat. If installed too low at front the water will flow into the room rather than outside. If installed too low at rear, water can roll out the front edges before it has a chance to exit towards the rear drain.
2. Icing up. Water being de-humidified from the room air can turn to ice if there are problems with the cooling system. There are many reasons for an air conditioner to produce ice. Remove front grille while machine is operating. If ice is present on the cooling coil you will probably need service. For more information about icing up see our article, ' Why window Air Conditioners Ice up'.
3. Air leakage around air conditioner. If warm air from outdoors is able to enter around the air conditioner it will encounter cooler, dryer air. When they meet condensation will occur. If water is leaking from front of air conditioner inspect area to see if dripping from body of machine, or water droplets clinging to front area. To test, operate machine for 30 minutes and then use flashlight to check under front edge of base. Small water droplets here indicate an air leakage problem. Add foam insulation to stop warm air from infiltrating.
4. Drain hole blocked. The rear of air conditioner base has a drain hole or notch to allow water to escape. If it becomes blocked water can back up. To test, operate machine for 30 minutes and then inspect if draining properly at rear. The base should contain a substantial amount of water, but not to the point where the whole base is completely full of water. If appears blocked use a small piece of wood (a popsicle stick or wooden skewer works well) to open drain hole at rear of metal base. CAUTION: Never be tempted to drill holes into the air conditioner body to relieve water pooling. Severe damage can result.
5. Internal drains blocked. There are small passageways that allow water to drain from front of air conditioner to the rear. If they become blocked water will pool at front of machine and overflow onto floor. If this happens the air conditioner will require removal from window and servicing. To test, operate machine for 30 minutes and then remove front filter and plastic cowling. If front of base completely full of water, but little dropping from rear of machine onto ground, suspect blocked passageways.
6. Outside temperature too cold. This problem is more common near the end of cooling season. If outside temperatures drops below 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night the cooling coil may ice up. If no leakage at bedtime but water in front of machine in morning, suspect this problem. If this problem suspected turn off machine before bedtime and restart as day warms. Alternately, operate machine at night with selector switch in ‘fan only’ position. This will circulate room air during night, but not allow cooling and the subsequent water leakage.

Contact Sierra Mechanical today for help with your cooling system. 

Why and How to Change Filters

Dirty filters kill your AC's efficiency, so install a new one every month during the cooling season for central and window units (or clean them if you've got the washable type). Look for the filter's minimum efficiency reporting value, or MERV, which ranges from 1 to 12 for home AC units; the higher the number, the better filtration it provides (and the more energy needed to pull air through it, so balance air-quality concerns with energy costs).