Why Air Conditioners Leak Water

An air conditioners primary job is to remove moisture from the room to give you a feeling of comfort. During this process they capture a lot of water. How much, is dependent upon humidity content of the air, size of the air conditioner, its operating efficiency, and whether it was properly installed. The water captured during normal operation flows down the cooling coil and drops into the base, following channels or passages to the rear. Some of the water is lifted up by the fan blade and used to cool the heating coil, while most of it proceeds to the rear where it drops out of the base and onto the ground. That is, if everything is working perfectly. The reality of window air conditioners is that they can leak water.

The source of the leak can be allusive, appearing to come from multiple places, or only happen sporadically. Whichever the case, an air conditioner that leaks can drive you crazy trying to find the cause of the problem.

The following are a few suggestions of the most common reasons why water leakage occurs.

1. Improperly installed. A window air conditioner must be installed so that it's slightly lower at the rear than the front. This allows the water being removed from the room to drain to the back of the machine. A difference of one inch is sufficient. This is always the first thing to check. Many are improperly installed in the haste to get relief from the heat. If installed too low at front the water will flow into the room rather than outside. If installed too low at rear, water can roll out the front edges before it has a chance to exit towards the rear drain.
2. Icing up. Water being de-humidified from the room air can turn to ice if there are problems with the cooling system. There are many reasons for an air conditioner to produce ice. Remove front grille while machine is operating. If ice is present on the cooling coil you will probably need service. For more information about icing up see our article, ' Why window Air Conditioners Ice up'.
3. Air leakage around air conditioner. If warm air from outdoors is able to enter around the air conditioner it will encounter cooler, dryer air. When they meet condensation will occur. If water is leaking from front of air conditioner inspect area to see if dripping from body of machine, or water droplets clinging to front area. To test, operate machine for 30 minutes and then use flashlight to check under front edge of base. Small water droplets here indicate an air leakage problem. Add foam insulation to stop warm air from infiltrating.
4. Drain hole blocked. The rear of air conditioner base has a drain hole or notch to allow water to escape. If it becomes blocked water can back up. To test, operate machine for 30 minutes and then inspect if draining properly at rear. The base should contain a substantial amount of water, but not to the point where the whole base is completely full of water. If appears blocked use a small piece of wood (a popsicle stick or wooden skewer works well) to open drain hole at rear of metal base. CAUTION: Never be tempted to drill holes into the air conditioner body to relieve water pooling. Severe damage can result.
5. Internal drains blocked. There are small passageways that allow water to drain from front of air conditioner to the rear. If they become blocked water will pool at front of machine and overflow onto floor. If this happens the air conditioner will require removal from window and servicing. To test, operate machine for 30 minutes and then remove front filter and plastic cowling. If front of base completely full of water, but little dropping from rear of machine onto ground, suspect blocked passageways.
6. Outside temperature too cold. This problem is more common near the end of cooling season. If outside temperatures drops below 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night the cooling coil may ice up. If no leakage at bedtime but water in front of machine in morning, suspect this problem. If this problem suspected turn off machine before bedtime and restart as day warms. Alternately, operate machine at night with selector switch in ‘fan only’ position. This will circulate room air during night, but not allow cooling and the subsequent water leakage.

Contact Sierra Mechanical today for help with your cooling system. 

HVAC Maintenance

The average household spends more than $2,200 a year on energy bills, and nearly half of that comes from heating and cooling costs. With the summer heat ready to peak, homeowners across the country are turning their air conditioning up to full blast. But you can save electricity and avoid hefty repair bills by giving your HVAC system an annual check-up.

The best time for HVAC maintenance is right before extreme temperatures hit, so try our energy-saving tune-up tips today.

DIY Maintenance:

• Clean/change the air filter. If you only make one tune-up this season, clean your air filter – doing so can lower your air conditioner's energy consumption by up to 15%. In the summertime, you should wash your reusable filter or replace your disposable one once per month.
• Clear the area around the outdoor unit. Keep vegetation at least two feet away from the unit so it is free to pull in air. This  includes raking up leaves in the fall.

Calling in a Professional

Some parts of a thorough annual check-up require disassembling an AC unit, so you'll have to call a service technician for a quick, professional check-up. The technician will:

• Clear the drain. A clogged drain can waste nearly as much energy as a dirty filter because your unit has to work harder to send out even less cool air.
• Clean the outdoor and indoor units. The technician will keep the outdoor condenser fan running efficiently by cleaning the fan blades, and will maintain the unit's ability to cool the air moving through it by removing dust and other buildup from the indoor evaporator coil.

Help Your HVAC Do Its Job

​To get the most bang from your HVAC buck, use these general energy-saving tips. They'll help you support your system and save energy around the house.

• Get a programmable thermostat. It's easier to save energy with a programmable thermostat than a regular one because you don't have to think about it each time you want to change the temperature. You pre-program your settings so that the thermostat raises the temperature while you're at work and asleep, and kicks on the air conditioning when you're at home and awake. With "smart"  programmable thermostats, you can even control the temperature from your smartphone.
• Seal your heating/cooling ducts and any open spaces. Make sure doors, windows, and nooks and crannies are shut and properly sealed. The less cool air that escapes your home, the less energy you'll waste, and more comfortable you'll be.
• Set your thermostat to your ideal temperature (not any colder). Setting the air conditioner to a colder-than-desired temperature doesn't cool down your house any quicker – it just keeps the unit working longer than necessary. So, set it to where you want it. And remember: You save up to 1% on your yearly cooling bill every time you raise the temperature by one degree for a period of eight hours. So, set it to around 78° - after all, it is summer!

Why and How to Keep Unit Cool

Don't Make it Work So Hard

Extend the life of your AC system by keeping blinds or shades down during the day; you can also install awnings to shield south-facing windows from intense sun. Consider running the AC in conjunction with floor or ceiling fans to circulate cooled air more effectively.

Keep your Condenser & Compressor free of obstructions.

A central AC system's air compressor and condenser are usually located outside the house, close to your foundation. It works best when there's about 24 inches of clear space in all directions, so get rid of nearby shrubs, tall grass, leaves, and hanging branches. Install condensers or window units on the north or east side of your house, or build a screen to shield them from the sun. Putting them in direct sunlight reduces their efficiency by as much as 10 percent.

Insulate, Insulate, Insulate...

Keeping your AC in shape will help you stay cool and save dough
Ducts in hot attics or crawl spaces should be wrapped to keep the air within them cool. You can use spray foam, batt insulation, or rigid-foam insulation. Seal batt and rigid insulation with foil tape (not duct tape). For tight spaces, wraps like Reflectix offer some degree of insulation.

Why and How to Change Filters

Dirty filters kill your AC's efficiency, so install a new one every month during the cooling season for central and window units (or clean them if you've got the washable type). Look for the filter's minimum efficiency reporting value, or MERV, which ranges from 1 to 12 for home AC units; the higher the number, the better filtration it provides (and the more energy needed to pull air through it, so balance air-quality concerns with energy costs).

Why and How to Use a Timer

There's no need to blast the AC while you're away. For central units, install a programmable thermostat that lets you set higher temps when you're gone and cooler temps when you're home. Newer window units have built-in timers and adjustable thermostats, or you can buy a timer at any home store for $10 to $20; just make sure it matches your device's voltage. Unless you're going on vacation, don't shut off the system; otherwise, the air compressor will need to work harder to cool your house later.